Some important things to know if one wants to start buying or making (on the subject, see my attempt at sleeping bag realization and the elephant foot that eventually replaced ) a sleeping bag down.
First, be sure that it is the appropriate down, not insulation synthetic fibers.
Reminder (see this article): nights under the stars = synthetic almost every time.
I have broken down the choice of four steps:
- determine the suitable temperature comfort
- choose the swelling index,
- choose fabrics,
- the last points that can influence the choice.
After that, choose the comfort temperature. According to Pimasleepingbags.com, the advantage of down sleeping bags here is that they have a much wider range of use than synthetic. In my case, if I use a synthetic + 5 ° C to 10-12 ° C, I like being in an oven, so I have to open, and a few hours later I freezes me a small half of the body. Moral: it’s not cool. While it is still good with a down bag.
Women with a slower metabolism on average than men, they need a sleeping bag a little more insulation. The difference is especially felt when going below-10 ° C it would seem. And anyway, between a cautious man and another not, there will be a difference of degree plusiseurs. The psychological factor is not negligible either I think, if we are convinced that we will curdle even the best 000 will not help you save the programmed glaglatage.
Some manufacturers give a temperature comfortable for men and another for women, it can help to have an idea of the average difference between the sexes.
In all cases, there are at least two values: T c the comfort temperature and T tc the temperature limit of comfort. Basically, T l c is the temperature at which one sleeps well when everything goes well, ate well, drank well and not too tired, and T c corresponds to the contrary when it is blown, and / or we the slab, and / or we die of thirst.
It’s not what you say the pundits of the field, or even in-store sales, but that is very true I think.
Finally, few manufacturers meet the European standard for measuring temperature. And when they do the values are enough (actually very) pessimistic. This standard requires indeed to model someone on the back (why not), naked (hello grime that collects the poor bag!) And without mats (yes, every day)!
Valandré the fact, for example, which gives rather unrealistic results. Hence this adds another manufacturer operating temperature much closer to reality; there is at least 5 ° C difference, if it is not more!
Once the selected temperature comfort, choose the quality of the down. The important fact is that once the swelling index of down. This is a value in cu.in eg 700 cu.in , indicating the volume in cubic inch, occupied by one ounce of down. The higher the value, the better the down.
A duvet under 650 cu.in is not terrible, between 650 cu.in 750 cu.in it’s good, and beyond one falls into the Rolls Down bags. But watch the wallet, it’s expensive Rolls!
It seems however that a great duvet, 800 cu.in for example, would be more sensitive to moisture.I have not tested whether this is true or not. This seems only logical because to do the same job there needs less down 800 cu.in that fluff 650 cu.in and therefore whether to mop up the same amount of water, in the end it remains fluff 650 cu.in dry and still effective as of down 800 cu.in .
In this connection, a brand has developed a treatment rendering it hydrophobic down, and even more expensive. I do not know if it’s bogus, but I tend to think that even if it works at first, after a while the natural change their spots and therefore we are left with a good hydrophilic down as of usual, except that it has paid for it. After that we have the means to change the jacket and sleeping bag every year …
I add that in my opinion there is no difference between duck down and goose down, which is gray, white or purple. In fact what really matters is the amount of air trapped by the fluff, for it is he that isolates. We therefore for the fact that it takes a good swelling index, period.
On the site randonner-leger.org, there is a wiki dedicated to this subject for those who want more information. This same wiki gives formulas from overlapping manufacturer data indicating the temperature limit of comfort and convenience.
T lc =-0.0491 * Ic + Ic = 9.92 with M down * I g
M down = the mass of this down in the sleeping bag, in kilograms. Example 0.5 to 500 grams of down.
I g = index of swelling in cu.in . Example: 700
Choice of fabrics
The last important point is the choice of fabrics, interior and exterior.
Some bags are clearly oriented UL, ultralight, and very fine and delicate fabrics. They are not heavy but they require more care not to tear them.
Others, however, play the card more “”rustic”,” with lots of quotes because it’s still sleeping bag down, and have more sturdy fabrics, we can do more things with with little risk of ripping the .
There are sleeping bags with a water repellent outer fabric, to fight against the dew. I never tried, I do not know if it is really effective. It’s probably better at least.
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It takes a good rim and good flaps over zippers if you want a real bag for negative temperatures.
On the other hand, a cut chiadée with many compartments usually means better distribution of down, so the sleeping bag will be more effective.
Some bags have no zip, and thus better isolate mass equal down, but I find them too specific: it can not open them to adapt to warmer temperatures, which for long journeys is rédibitoire. For two weeks in Svalbard is perhaps a good plan however.
If you want to combine two sleeping bags, to ensure that this is possible, and take sleeping bags with zippers on different sides!
I think I went around all that important to choose a sleeping bag. If it does not, you can let me know through comments, it will service future readers. Thank you in advance.
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